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BALA
Echoing
tremors along a steel trackway and gentle billows of smoke floating hurriedly
into the air can only signal one thing: the 3.42 to Bala is on time. Puffing at a
brisk pace, this steam-driven engine and its traditional-style carriages
shuttle back and forth, several times a day, between Bala and the pretty
Once part of
the Cambrian Railway for nearly 100 years, this trackway has, since Dr
Beeching laid waste to much of In the 70s
local train enthusiasts decided that a railway alongside Bala lake, would
make for a more than ideal tourist attraction and a superb family day out. The move was
precipitated by the declining slate mining industry in the area, which had
given rise to a massive glut of steam rolling stock that was no longer in
use. Local
engineer George Barnes felt that a narrow gauge railway could easily be set
up and make use of this vast array of redundant machinery.
At
Pentrepiod station, where this walk begins, two volunteer drivers take the
helm of a locomotive pulling carriages fabricated in traditional style in the
late 1970s. Only a
handful of people can be seen occupying a few of the seats in the fully
enclosed cream and red carriages on a hazy Autumn, weekday afternoon. In the blink
of an eye, the train trundles past on a scenic and picturesque route past
Bala’s gently rippling, crystal clear waters. Cars can be
left in a lay-by, where would-be passengers can also flag down a train to
take a tour of the lakeside or perhaps stop off further en route for a
picnic. However,
this walk for the most part is confined to the long and winding country road
that lies directly next to the railway. Bordered by
sections of neatly trimmed hedges, wildflowers or trees, the road is
relatively flat for most of the journey. Along the
way, there are plenty of interesting shingle strewn coves and inlets to be
found along the lake shore. Perhaps the
largely uninterrupted views of Its vast
expanse is home to an enthusiastic sailing club which meets once a month
throughout the peak holiday season. Fishermen
are also known to make a beeline for these waters, which reputedly contain a
relic from the last Ice Age - the gwyniad. Others
believe this time also bequeathed the area another mysterious creature that
is more monstrous than the previously mentioned whitefish.
‘Teggie’ as
he or she is affectionately known is said to lurk beneath the deep down at
the bottom of the lake. Perhaps in
the half moonlight, after a few drinks, a wooden log could quite look like
the supposedly, dreaded ‘Teggie’, but he was on his best behaviour this particular sunny afternoon. Llyn Tegid,
as The waters
of the River Dee, are said to flow in to the lake, but to never actually
mingle with them, in a bid to retain their purity. But whatever
the truth of these myths, one thing is absolutely clear, the area has an
undeniable magical quality that is only heightened by the backdrop of
Snowdonia’s many impressive mountains. As you amble
along the lane, lush green meadows can often be seen either side of the
road. Some contain sheep, others
sulking bulls or perhaps a herd of pre-occupied cows as they thoughtfully
mind their young. Wild flowers
add a dash of glorious colour to the natural canvas and periodically a
country cottage or two also line the roadside. It’s not long
however, before you reach one of the several designated stations for the
lakeside railway.
Llangower is
the next port of call after Pentrepiod.
And a more pleasant and secluded location, you’d be hard-pressed to
find. A picnic
area, parking area and WCs are positioned in front of the station. Walk through
a wooden small gate and down some steps to see the trackway. Miniature
signals are positioned either side of the 2ft wide track, and a sturdy
platform has been built with the station’s name emblazoned across it. But the
interesting sites do not stop there.
If you walk on further past the narrow gauge track, a charming and
scenic small cove can be found which affords magnificent views of this part
of the lake. The shingle
strewn shore is ideal for sunbathing, pick-nicking or just generally taking
some time out.
Untidy rows
of branches and twigs, that have been tossed and turned by the tide,
carelessly line the water’s edge. And an
abundance of smoothly polished pebbles fill the waterbed and immediate
foreshore. Sunlight dances
on the gently shimmering waters as a cool breeze blows. Heaven must be something like this. But now, back to reality .... This
secluded idyll is perhaps a far cry from the bustling, small town of The wide
main street Stryd Fawr, has a charming range of tea rooms, pubs and small
shops. But perhaps Bala
is best known today for its lake and associated sporting events. Boating
regattas are a regular staple of the yearly calendar of activities. However, major cycling challenges are also
staged here such the Gran Fondo Cymru. White water
rafting on the River Tryweryn is also a very popular local sport. The Tryweryn
has been dammed to form Llyn Celyn, which is one of main local reservoirs
that supply boroughs in Merseyside.
Because the Tryweryn flows in to the River Dee at Bala, suitable
conditions have been created for canoeing and rafting. Back on the
walking trail, there’s nothing more spiritually uplifting than absorbing the
sun’s rays from bright blue skies on an almost deserted by-way, save for one
or two cars. It’s also an
interesting distraction to imagine yourself as a country cottage entrepreneur
as you spy the varying homes either side of the road. Some offer great renovation potential, and
others have already been developed perfectly and need nothing more.
Next, a
small hamlet is to be passed replete with renovated, small chapel. A small stone bridge completes the pretty
picture. There are also several waymarked trails in to the hills for those
wanting more in the way of adventure. After
passing a magnificent archway of aromatic trees, it’s time to take in the
next shallow bay. Not as
glamorous as Llangower, the next stopping point would again be ideal for
fishing or a quiet rest. The railway
track then heads out in to the distance, onward towards Bala. Walkers can
keep going to the end of the line, which would total about five miles. However from this point of the walk if
footsteps are retraced, the total duration should come to one and half hours.
(Or the train could be caught back to the starting point). Afterwards
Llanuwchllyn station could be sought out which has refreshments and gifts on
sale. Or indeed a local tea room or
inn could be chosen in Bala itself, or perhaps one nearer Glyn-yr-Aur. See the
slideshow of the Bala Lake Walk Activities: The Station, Llanuwchllyn, Bala
Tel: 01678 540666 Website:
http://www.bala-lake-railway.co.uk/contact.html Bala Leisure Centre Location: On the A494 between Corwen & Dolgellau, next
to Llyn Tegid ( Facilities include: swimming pool, sports hall (4 badminton courts),
sauna, fitness room, conference room, café. White Water Rafting Canolfan Tryweryn, National Whitewater Centre, Frongoch, Bala LL23
7NU Tel: 01678 521083 Website:
http://www.ukrafting.co.uk/ Bala Sailing Club Near Llanycil, railway side of |
